2009-01-20
Rose Chyprée by Tauer Perfumes
Russian version - click here
Image shows the samples of Rose Chyprée and comes from Andy's blog
Rose Chyprée is a running title of a new fragrance from Andy Tauer created in 2008. In December he presented it at his Apéro devoted to the Rose. Samples of this fragrance were available during the Advent-lottery for readers of Andy’s blog. Rose Chyprée doesn’t not have its name yet and her future is a bit unclear. Probably Andy will launch this new fragrance, but when and in what form?
The signature of Andy is recognizable from the first notes – the Rose is presented to the world by no other than His Excellency Incense. I suspect, that the dynamic of the relationship between Rose and Incense is the major source of inspiration (and probably for investigation) for Andy. Started in Incense Extreme and continued in Incense Rosé it’s clearly recognizable in Rose Chyprée as well. I will not be surprised if a drop of Rose and a drop of Incense could be found in each of creations by Tauer Perfume.
Meeting Rose Chyprée you should abandon the classic image of chypre rose known, for example, from Knowing (Estee Lauder) or Rose de Nuit (Serge Lutens). Andy surprises us with an abstract version of the chypre rose (as he did with Incense in his Incense Extreme). I can’t recognize an image of dark red rose petals slowly sinking in ambery honey, but I see sharp angles and shiny light reflecting edges.
The rose fragrance here is very close to its ancestor, the Rose Oil, but is presented in surprisingly unusual dress of the lemon candy. Like making a candied rose with crystalline petals from the real flower by drenching it in sugar syrup. Other rose components can be recognized by a thorough investigation. Like greenness of the fresh rose petals that comes jusr for a moment. Or the warmth of the spices gently merging with the background. The honey here is not a thick syrup anymore, but a placer of shiny golden crystals making a bed for the candied roses. Incense disappears quickly making place for the Oak moss that comes as a fine powder softening the sharp edges. This powdery note of Oak moss reminds me a bit of Rêverie au jardin.
It’s not the first time that I put this fragrance on my skin. And each times it opens slightly differently showing me its new facetted as if it doesn’t know yet which form to take on my skin. I am really curious what form it takes on someone else’s skin.
Labels:
chypre,
perfume review,
rose,
Tauer Perfumes
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4 opmerkingen:
This sounds terribly tempting and I thank you for your -much appreciated- feedback!
The frankincense touch is emintently suited to roses, bringing them out of the old fashioned and soapy territory they so often reside, no?
I recall Or et Noir by Caron had such an effect. If it's paired with a chyprish touch, all the better!
Dear Helg,
It looks like I'm dealing with a Frankincense ghost born in a depth of a random clash of notes. It was very strong by the first sniff and less obvious later. And the truth seems to be that there is no frankincense there at all... Perception can make funny jokes...
I inspired to Andy I wish one day I probably create my signature by making new fragrance. Thank you so much for this blog very informative.
cletsey
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