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This is a practical illustration of a previous entry
I found a couple of jasmine base formulas (N1032 and N1033) and also a jasmine perfumes made from those bases (jasmine N1034). Unfortunately I don’t have all of the listed compounds. But improvising in perfumery is something you have to learn from very beginning.
Forlmula 1032. Colourless jasmine (bye-bye indole).
The core is amyl cinammic aldehyde and benzyl acetate (the jasmine radish) is diluted with linalool (making jasmine more fresh), phenyl ethyl alcohol (making it softer) and hydroxycitronellal (making the jasmine whiter and more watery). Diluted jasmine was smelling more lily or muguet like. But fortunately there is geranyl acetate (strong rosy pear) that can restore the strength of jasmine. A couple of drops of creamy fruitiness from peach aldehyde makes a modest sweet fruity jasmine with lack for indolic narcotic depth. But no indole in this formula – it should stay colourless. Ylang and cresol ethers should give some narcotic nuances. But para-cresyl phenyl acetate is used in the formula while I have only para-cresyl methyl ether. They are not really interchangeable and the aromachemical I have doesn’t posses the phenolic honey note, but I can compensate it with a drop of pehnylacetic acid – a famous phenolic honey note in perfumery. Ylang-ylang oil and para-cresyl methyl ether gave narcotic depth, but I still prefer the way indole would have done that. A finishing touch is a spiciness from ethyl cinnamate. I don’t have it, so I’ll use methyl cinnamate. That’s all.
As a result I get a clear almost colourless liquid (as it was promissed). This jasmine scent has striking fruity nuances and some lily-muguet elements. This jasmine posseses some fresh nuances, but in general it’s really heady and intensive. A drop of vanilla and amber and another floriental is born. There is a narcotic note, but less obvious as in live flower. I do miss indole here. The fruitiness of benzyl acetate is not sharp, but very sultry – it enfolds you like a doft warm shawl that can almost suffocate you. Let’s call it oriental lily of the jasmine.
I do have even less compounds or alternatives for this one. Improvising again. Or better say – always improvising. This formula uses some expensive naturals such as orris concrete and jasmine absolute.
The core is again a mixture of amyl cinnamic aldehyde and benzyl acetate. The jasmine radish it is. To dilute it the phenylethyl alcohol is used together with hydroxycitronellal. No linalool this time. And I’d say that without linalool this jasmine at this stage is much more muguet than the previous one. Methylionone is used here. Wow – adding a violet-iris component to jasmine sounds like something add and forbidden. And the result is also strange – meet the jasmine violet. Orris concrete does not help. But I remember, that the oil of ylang is very good in taming of ionones. And yes, after a couple of drops of ylang-ylang oil it finally smells jasmine. This formula uses indole that I have added with pleasure enjoying its narcotic depth. But than I had to use benzyl phenylacetate. I don’t have it and neither have heard about it nor smelled it. A book told me that it possesses a faint floral aromat and is used as a fixative. The only more or less close alternative I can think is benzyl alcohol. And may be a drop of honey again in form of phenyl aceteic acid. As a spicy component this formula suggests a carnation base. Well, eugenol with iso-eugenol would do the job. And unfortunately I did put too much of them – needed a better calculation work. Sorry, jasmine, you’ll become a spicy one.
The result is a spicy (be careful with eugenol next time) jasmine with a striking fruity note again and some lily and muguet elements. The deep indolic narcotic nuances are present, but they can’t compete with the strength of jasmine fruitiness.
Both of those jasmine formulas are suggested to be used to make a jasmine perfume 1034 by adding some naturals like absolutes of jasmine, rose and orange blossom. Natural tinctures of musk, amber and a drop of civet are used to create the base for this perfume. Unfortunately I don’t have the last naturals – only synthetic substitutes.