2008-08-26

The highlights of my vacation III

The visit to the perfumery atelier of Guy Delforge



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The visit of perfumery atelier Guy Delforge was rather disappointing although not without some charm. There are three official languages in Belgium, but in fact people in the French part of it reluctantly speak Dutch (or better say Flemish – the Belgian dialect of the Dutch language) and vice versa. The same was with my guided tour. Officially I could take it either in Dutch or in French. But I appeared to be the only one asking for a Dutch tour – the rest of the group (about 15 people) were French speaking. The guide simply refused to translate for me in Dutch as it would drain the attention from the rest of the group and make a mess from a tour. To be honest I have to mention that I didn’t have to pay for the tour as a compensation (3,50 euro).

My French is only good to translate the names of the perfumes (sometimes with a dictionary). The most of the tour I could understand because of my knowledge of basics of perfumery. But I didn’t learn anything new – even if there were something new – I simply couldn’t understand it.

The tour is addressed for a public wishing to touch the “mystery of perfumery” and is full of perfumery fairy tales and myths (mostly based on common facts although). The tour is not going through the laboratories, but through a set up route. The laboratories were not on the way and I could only glance at them behind the closed glass doors. I could also see an obviously set up perfumer’s organ. Surprisingly it was consisting of only natural materials in the big aluminium cans. On the table – a couple of measuring glasses with some liquid in it. Pure decoration as I really doubt if any perfumer has used it. I was told about the favourable location of the atelier in the basement of citadel for making perfumes – it’s dark there, no dramatic temperature variations, no climate influences, it’s silent and quiet…

The perfumery fairy tales I heard were about the stage of perfume creations, the factors giving impacts on fragrances and how to use and to store the perfumes. Enflurage and distillation were briefly mentioned. The guide has also played the games with the audience – he let us smell some essential oils asking to guess what it was. Later he did the same with the basic fragrances like rose, jasmine and muguet. I did really appreciated his sense of humour, but unfortunately my French was not good enough to understand the most of it. He made some jokes about the purpose of glands of the musk rat and even promised a personal demonstration of how the rat would use the glands. He also made some jokes about the most popular fragrance in Belgium (“muguet” was the fragrance he meant, but “les frietes, potato chips” was the answer of the audience).

At the end of the tour there was a surprise for everyone. The guide and his assistances promised to choose a Guy Delforge fragrance for everyone based on his or hers favourite perfume. The trick is simple – Guy Delforge has a fragrance for each of the subgroup of olfactory group. So if you like Paris of YSL, you get the rosy violet floral perfume from Delforge. He also has his version of Cabochard and Angel and oriental perfumes for only 28 or 38 euro for 50 or 100 ml. For the visitors of the tour – 2 euro discount per perfume. I can’t add anything else about the fragrances of Guy Delforge.

2008-08-25

The highlights of my vacation II

Part II: Köln



Image: borrowed from the abyss of Internet picture of Dom in Köln

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In Köln I met a friend who has shown me some of the hotspots and also presented with small decants of rare vintage perfumes (worth to mention in a separate entry).

Beauty and Nature shop has a collection of Primavera essential oils and absolutes where I could try some new ones I was not familiar with yet. For some oils and absolutes they have several variations – like several jasmine, rose and neroli oils/absolutes. Surprising was to try a soft and gentle white rose oil. Finally I’ve bought some of them to play with later:
Osmanthus absolute from Australia 5% solution in pure alcohol – reminds me of a combination of tannic note of black tea and sour and sweet dried apricots.
Magnolia blossoms oil from China – with its salty note reminds me of lavender a bit. But it has more aspects to get acquaintance with.
Cacao extract from Peru – perfect chocolate, almost to eat from the bottle.
Tagetes oil (African marigold) 15% solution in pure alcohol – the first impression – coffee with rum, but later I discovered its herbal floral fragrance with a bitter chocolate undertone.

Beauty&Nature
Ehrenstraße 40-42
50762 Köln

The cakes again… I feel like I am in paradise. This time I did try a kind of walnut cake – did they use some ambrosia to make it?

The perfumery I visited was Apropos – a large assortiment of niche perfumery.

Apropos
Mittelstrasse 12
D-50672 Köln
www.apropos-coeln.de

Well, highlights only:

The use of pink feathers instead as blotters…

I did try some Montales:
Blue Amber – a nicely dirty amber – like Ambre Sultan with more animalic notes.
Ginger and musk – nice spicy musky sweetness, like ginger candies. The most of sweetness comes from the synthetic musks. They had a sample of it.
Red aoud – surprisingly similar to Red Vetyver.

Finally I tried Tundra. I know this one and this time it didn’t appear to be special. But after I put it on my skin it began slowly opening and gave me its various facets (berries, fresh water, herbs of tundra etc). In about a half hour it was the only fragrance I could smell (one spray of it has conquered it all). Now it’s on my wishlist too.

I visited the Commes de Garçons boutique that I never could find if I was alone – it’s behind a door from a frosted glass with almost no sign on it (actually you can see only the upper third of small “commes de garcons” sign). They have just several fragrances. The green series I wanted to try was not there.

Friesenwall 5-7
50672 Köln, Germany

Köln has the biggest Gothic cathedral, but less beautiful than one I’ve seen in Aachen.

The house 4711 is a kind of disappointing tourist hotspot now. You can still buy their modern versions of eau de cologne, Tabac, Tosca and several others. You can also visit a small exhibition of their history at glance. But there is nothing left from a spirit of former glory of the House.

Finally traditional German “lunch” (taken at about 18.00, so it has become the main meal of the day). This time I tried a kind of “butcher’s dish” – various kinds of meat with mashed potato and sauerkraut (yes, what else ;-). Simple, heavy and delicious.

2008-08-24

The highlights of my vacation I

Part I: Aachen

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Image: Postwagen - a nice restaurant serving traditional German food

A very beautiful Cathedral – his chapel was built in times of Charles the Great and still remain a part of a Gothic Cathedral making an interesting contrast. His gargoyles are mysterious. His stained glass is amazing. His pearl mosaic on the ceiling is charming.

For lunch I’ve visited a very special restaurant with traditional German food (recommended by a friend). Sauerbraten (Rheinischer Sauerbraten mit Rosinen und Printengewürz mit
Kartoffelklöße und Rotkohl) was the sliced marinated and roasted meat served traditionally with stewed red cabbage and “potato eggs” (Kartoffelklöße) where “yolk” was made of a small dough ball and “egg white” from mashed potato. The menu gives also a suggestion for a less traditional side dish – chips and salad. The meat was delicious – soft and tender, slightly sour and gently spiced. Perfect combination with red cabbage and raisins - yummy. The Kartoffelklöße taste a bit strange for a novice – I’d prefer either chips or mashed potato. This German lunch was pretty heavy – can be a substitute for the main meal.

Restaurant:
Markt 40
52062 Aachen, Germany
http://www.ratskeller-aachen.de

In Aachen I have also tried a special beer from Köln – it even has a special name – “kölsch”.

German pastry may be not refined, but very delicious. Mostly they are made with a real butter cream (and not from whipped cream as the most of Dutch cakes are made of). The oldest coffeehouse of Aachen has a very Dutch name – Leo van den Daele. Don’t be surprised – from the centre of Aachen you can walk to the Netherlands in an hour. Although the fine rice cakes are the specialty of the coffeehouse, I did choose a luxury chocolate Sachertorte.

Coffeehouse:
Büchel 18-20
52062 Aachen, Germany
http://www.van-den-daele.de

Going to Aachen I haven’t searched for any perfumery shop in hope to find one by chance. I found two of them (but there are definitely more). Goldkopf Parfümerie has mostly luxury line and also Serge Lutens, Etro, Annick Goutal etc. I’ve tried Vetiver by Etro there. A nice woody vetiver with a smoky undertone – it’s on my wishlist now. Another perfumery is Anne Gallwé beautystore specialised in niche perfumery. I did try a lot of staff there – Italian perfumery I am not good familiar with. Finally I left it with a sample of the salesassistant’s favourite – Chocolate Greedy by Montale to remind me about those delicious German cakes when I get home.

Goldkopf-Parfümerie Dr. Lennartz GmbH
Dahmengraben 19, Aachen
www.goldkopf.de

anne gallwé
fischmarkt 4
52062 aachen
http://www.annegallwe-beautystore.de