Russian version - click here
The perfume opens with a bitter sweet citrus freshness of grapefruit supported by a spiciness of clary sage. And than from the depth of the fragrance comes vetiver. It spills like a pot of black ink filling everything with dark, slightly smokey, earthy and herbaceous aroma. The bitter sweetness of coumarin from Tonka beans supports and emphasizes the aromatic medicinal part of vetiver from one side and from another side it re-echoes with a bitter sweetness of a grapefruit note. White floral and slightly spicy accord of clary sage and lily of the valley jingles above dark vetiver-coumarine ravine. Although the vetiver note is very prominent and present at the background I am not sure if it’s a vetiver fragrance – a very beautiful clary sage accord of this perfume takes a lead on my skin at some moments making the vetiver just to follow and support at the background. At another moments it surrenders to vetiver becoming just a soft part of it. The play between the Clary sage-Lily of the Valley accord and Vetiver is like a dance.
This fragrance is a primeval song combining low booming vibrations of Vetiver and alto female duet of clary sage and lily of the valley. The colours are black (vetiver), all tints of green (from dark green of vetiver till bluish and greyish green of clary sage) and white (Lily of the valley). Grapefruit and coumarin give some bruin accents. Those are the colours of the Mother Earth. It reminds me of a quiet primeval forest after the rain when the air is saturated with water damps and the earth is fertile. The fragrance is heavy and slow – it’s like a mist that crawls on the ground inevitably feeling all open spaces and embracing everything.
At the end when everything is said and done, the dry down is coming revealing the signature of Andy – the warm woody ambery base reminding me of L’air du desert marocain.
The perfume will be available in October this year. To be ordered at Tauer Perfumes
The notes (as announced on the fyer):
Grapefruit, black pepper, green clary sage leaves, brilliant lily of the valley, dark vetiver of Java, crisp cedar wood and soft ambergris with a hint of cistus and Tonka beans.
UPDATE I: What I found to be a spicy note of clary sage was the pepper - a lot of it, nicely integrated with clary sage and lily of the valley (so I did miss it completely). At my second sniff I was amazed how strong the pepper note was there - it opens with a pepper explosion with grapefruit and clary sage behind... (July 9, 08 9:20 AM)
UPDATE II: The Vetiver seems not to be Unnamed anymore. After long discussions and thinking Andy has come back to his first suggestion last nice - Vetiver Dance. (July 9, 08 9:20 AM)